After a long journey from New York through Paris and Zagreb, we arrived yesterday afternoon in Split, a city of about 140,000 on the central Dalmatian coast. It is old, and beautiful.
We are staying here for one more night in an an apartment (there are 15 of us). This morning, a group of us went to an ENORMOUS farmers market a short walk from where we are staying. We got cherries, strawberries, peaches, onion, carrots, beets, honey... I was in hog heaven. Most of the market stalls were manned by old women in headscarves, who were very patient with us as we tried to parse out quantity and price... It is such a joy to visit a place where it seems that buying food at such a market is the norm. It was also delightful to see a large vegetable garden in almost every yard as were were driving into town from the airport yesterday, and cherry and fig trees everywhere.
We have enjoyed wandering the labyrinthine streets of this 1500-year-old part of town, built originally as a retirement home for a Roman emperor. We're going to make a lunch with our market finds, and then spend the afternoon at the beach... Church bells are ringing outside, and the day is warm and pleasant, with soft sea clouds scudding by.
It is, in short, lovely to be on vacations, and lovely to be with Slavs.
[Pictures to follow soon--slow internet connection!]

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